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Flojohn Travels

~ Travel Blog of John & Florence Youden

Flojohn Travels

Category Archives: Italy

Cinque Terre from the Air

07 Sunday Oct 2018

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy, Random

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Cinque Terre, Drone

Making the movie above nearly cost me my drone. On the last day of this trip to Cinque Terre I got perhaps a little too confident in my flying abilities, and that of the drone.

Although I own a drone, I don’t consider myself as one who “flies drones”. Some like to race them, performing amazing maneuvers or tricks, but that’s not why I have a drone. I see it more as a camera that has wings. Getting the camera away from me and up in the air has opened up a whole new approach to taking pictures. With the drone I can place my lens in places where previously I could only accomplish with a helicopter or plane.

A photographer is always trying to find a new angle, searching for a new way to express themselves or their subject via still images or video. It is what has driven me to climb mountains, rock faces, to go to places where if I didn’t have a camera around my neck and an idea in my head of what a great shot this could be, I would never otherwise have done it. Good photographers are always pushing the envelope.

When I got a drone, I was quite conservative with my flying as I learned how it functioned and flew. I kept close to shore and away from potential objects I could run into. But the more I used the drone, the more it opened me to new possibilities. I’d start thinking, “Well, what if I were to…” I soon learned that if you aren’t getting into a little trouble with your drone, well then, you aren’t pushing yourself to get some really great shots.

But that’s also when I started getting into trouble. Continue reading →

Visit to Cinque Terre

06 Saturday Oct 2018

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Cinque Terre, Corniglia, Great Bike Rides, Great Hikes, Levanto, Monterosso, Riomaggiore, Vernazza

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Corniglia, in the middle of Cinque Terre

The week before we were to head to Cinque Terre from Nice, the weather forecast said it would be raining the whole time we’d be there. And the day before we left it did, indeed, rain. But then the skies opened up, the weather Gods looked fondly upon us, and we ended up with clear blue skies during our whole trip, until we returned and the clouds started rolling back in. Lucky again.

We drove over, stopping for lunch in the seaside town of Alassio. The drive should have been about 2 1/2 hours, but with the collapse of the Morandi bridge in Genoa, traffic was so bad that it added 40 minutes to our trip. We could see the bridge as we drove through, and also see the effect it is having on the city. It is making life terrible for the residents of the town. Unfortunately there is no good alternative route, so everyone that’s traveling on the coast freeway has to detour and drive through the middle of the town. It’s a mess and it will be for awhile.

Cinque Terre is situated on the eastern shore of the Ligurian Sea, a sea which has Italy for its northern and eastern borders, France for its western, and Corsica for its southern border. We had thought it would work out best for us if we had a hotel in the middle of Cinque Terre so it would be easier to access all the villages we wanted to see. We felt somewhere up high, near the village of San Bernardino would work best, and found a wonderful B&B called Ca de Ventu just above the village. And because of the clear skies that we had, we could see basically all of the Ligurian Sea from there.

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Ca de Ventu B&B (to the left)

Continue reading →

Visit to Lake Garda, Italy

22 Tuesday May 2018

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

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Desenzano, Lake Garda, Sermione, Verona

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View of Garda Island on Lake Garda

Our 20th anniversary was coming up so I decided to surprise my wife with a getaway trip to Lake Garda in Italy. I didn’t tell her about my plans, just let her know a couple of hours before we had to catch our plane. This would be our second trip to Italy’s northern lake district, as we visited Lake Como last fall. Everything went quite smoothly… until we arrived at the car rental agency in Venice.

If you are mostly interested in the places we visited (Verona, Lake Garda and Sirmione), you may want to skip down the page and not read about our travails trying to get to Lake Garda. Continue reading →

Exploring Lake Como & Portofino

17 Tuesday Oct 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Bellagio, Como, Great Bike Rides, Lake Como, Lugano, Menaggio, Portofino, Varenna

Every now and then we like to do a trip on the spur of the moment, especially in the fall when the weather can be iffy. We choose a few places in different parts of Europe, and then as we get close to the time to leave, we go with the one where the weather looks best. This year the Lakes District of Northern Italy won out. So we loaded up the car with paddle boards and put our bikes on the bike rack, and hit the road.

Lakes District

The Italian Lakes District is comprised of five major lakes and a series of smaller ones, situated in the northern part of Italy, near the Swiss border and just above Milan. Of the five primary lakes, Lake Como is the most famous. And if you just have time to visit one, this is the one. The lake is shaped like an upside-down “Y”, with the towns of Como and Lecco at the bottom, and the famous towns of Bellagio, Varenna, Tremezina and Menaggio congregated where the three arms of the lake meet. A number of ferries joins these towns and shorelines together, as driving to them would adds hours to travel time. If you are to visit anywhere on Lake Como, it is in the central area where you can quickly visit four of the regions most popular and most beautiful towns.

Lake Como

We left from Nice, entered Italy, taking the coastal freeway through Savona, then up to Mondavi, and then took the SP12 (a favorite highway) to Albi. The color of the leaves were turning and the day was just beautiful with clear blue skies. We took our time, enjoying the scenery of rolling hills of yellow, orange and red, as the vineyard leaves to turn to vibrant colors.

In years past when we’ve gone to Northern Italy in the autumn, it is usually to take in the Truffle Festival in Albi. But, as we got out of Nice late, we just drove through Piemonte, enjoying the colors and pastoral landscape along the way.

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Continue reading →

Return to Venice

26 Monday Jun 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

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Italy, Venice

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We spent a week in Venice in 2011 and, other than the crowds, we really enjoyed exploring its streets and waterways. It is an amazing city like no other, based primarily on water transportation for all services, and it does it all, it seems, so well. And it is so photogenic, with never-ending opportunities for photo ops.

This trip provided us just a couple of days on the way to Croatia and a day on the way back, which was just enough of a tease for us to leave saying we need to come back soon. We kept away from all major tourist landmarks such as the Rialto bridge or San Marco Plaza, at least during the day, as there so many people that’s you start feeling claustrophobic.

We are quite content to spend our time in other neighborhoods such as San Polo, Castelo, Dorsodouro and Cannareigio, which the crowds tend to avoid. There are just so many great restaurants down off-the-beaten-track narrow streets to enjoy, as well as wine bars and oceanside terraces. We especially enjoyed San Marco Plaza when the cruise ships and day-trippers had left, enjoying an Apero at Cafe Lavena while listening to the live band and people watching.

On our next trip we plan to visit some of the outer islands such as Murano, La Guidecca, and Lido.

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Back to the Cote d’Azur…

06 Thursday Apr 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Cote d'Azur, Europe, France, Italy, Nice

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Auron, Ventimiglia

After an amazing winter season in Mexico, (one of the best weather seasons we can remember), we are back in the south of France and quickly acquainting ourselves with the venues and activities we most enjoy here.

For me it means getting back into biking, with trips to places like La Turbie, Roquebrune (which I’ve previously written about so won’t mention anymore about them), the Monte Carlo golf club up and above Monaco, and a new trip to La Revere.

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Ride up to Eze on the “Moyenne Corniche” overlooking Villefranche 

I wanted to check out the golf club to perhaps get in a game or two this year. The rates are reasonable, course is short though, but the views are amazing. It sits on top of the mountain behind Monaco. La Revere is an old fort on top of the mountain behind Eze. There are viewpoints, nature walks and picnic tables, all overlooking the Cote d’Azur coastline.

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Eze to the lower left, Cap Ferat peninsula behind it, Villefranche (with cruise ship anchored) to the right and the Nice Airport upper right.

We also arrived back to discover there is still snow on the hills behind Nice, and that there would be a fresh dump of now on a Sunday and into the night. So we drove up Sunday afternoon to Auron, had a wonderful dinner at El White restaurant, stayed the night at the Hôtel l’Ecureuil, and got up early the next morning to blue skies, six inches of fresh powder snow, and hardly anyone on the hill. As we waited for the lift to open, the only other people we saw were those that worked on the hill. We managed to do a few runs before we even saw any other skiers, and certainly never had to wait in line at the lifts. It was a great day. We skied for a few hours, had a coffee break at our favorite restaurant on the hill, Sauma Longue, and then returned a few hours later for lunch.

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Village of Auron

The ski area offers 135 kms of ski runs with 43 routes: 8 blacks, 16 reds, 16 blues, 3 greens. There’s 16 skilifts: 3 cable cars, 9 chairlifts, 3 draglifts, 1 tear-lift.

That evening we went out for dinner in the village to the restaurant El White. We all had steak frites, washed down with a lovely Provence wine from Chateau Roubine. Highly recommended. Food is fantastic, as is the decor… we’ll be back…

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We drove back on late Monday afternoon, quite exhausted, had a good night’s sleep and then got up and drove to Ventimigila in Italy for some shopping and lunch. We stocked up on aged balsamic vinegar, olive oil, limoncello, and plenty of fruits and vegetables. For lunch we left Ventimiglia and visited our favorite place in the area, L’Osteria di Caterina located in the main plaza of the old town of Dolceaqua. Great food at great prices.

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Village of Dolceaqua with the castle in behind

Now it’s time to back our bags for a couple of weeks in Portugal…

Weekend in Alba, Piemonte

06 Sunday Nov 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

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Alba, Great Drives, Wine

Someone once described Piemonte to me as being “Tuscany without the Tourists“. And, to a degree, that is true, they are similar in many ways and there are less tourists. But what people really enjoy about Tuscany – the rolling landscape, the meandering country roads, the wine, the food and the medieval villages – can be also be found in Piemonte, especially the region around Alba, and for a lot less money.

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Drive up between Sospel and Tende, near Saorge

When the leaves are changing color turning the hillsides into an amazing palette of bright colors, the landscape is simply amazing. Toss that in with good food and wine, great accommodation, and then add to it that you can experience it all for price that is a lot less than Tuscany, and it’s easy to conclude there really isn’t a better place to be in the fall than Piemonte. At least, I can’t think of a better place to be.

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img_1529We drove up from Nice, through Sospel and then passed by Saorge (an amazing hillside town), Tende, Cuneo and then into the Piemonte (mountain foothills) valley. The above photo was taken along the drive after just leaving Sospel, and where we began the climb over (and through) the mountain range that borders Italy. To the right is an image of our GPS, showing just how windy the road can be, and how many hairpin turns there are.

We went directly to Alba as that is where the White Truffle Festival was currently taking place. We’d attended a few years back and really enjoyed it so we decided at the last minute to do it again. The weather wasn’t as great as it was last time, but everything else was wonderful. It was lunch time so we had a great one at Ristorante Vigin Mudest, which is right beside one of the finest wine stores in Alba; Fracchia & Berchialla. After lunch we walked it off exploring the narrow streets of Alba, and then headed south to Vicoforte, where our hotel is located.

Driving around the countryside here is not that easy if you are in a hurry, but then you shouldn’t be. There is so much to see you really want to take your time. Although there is a freeway along the perimeter of the Langhe (as it is known) region, inside with the rolling hills and picturesque valleys there is nothing but windy roads that were (thankfully) built to go around the hills rather than through them. Yes, you’ll be stuck behind a tractor once in awhile, but that will allow you to enjoy the scenery that much more.

There are many country roads to take, but the one’s we’ve enjoyed most were SP12 from Braglia to Alba, as well any of the roads around La Morra, Barolo and Alba, all towns worth visiting. You’ll need the most time for Alba, as it is the largest community in the area.

 

img_1531We previously had stayed close to Alba, but this time chose the small boutique hotel Duchessa Margherita in the south of Langhe, in the village of Vicoforte, right next to a sanctuary which has the world’s largest elliptical cupola and is very much worth seeing. This historic house, built in the middle of the 19th century, was dedicated to Margherita, the oldest daughter of the Duke of Savoy, Carlo Emanuele I. Each room of the house is dedicated to a member of the royal family. Entering this house is like plunging into the history of the Savoy dynasty.

For getting around, the staff at the hotel really know the region well and it is well worth spending a few minutes with them to get their recommendations on things to see, places to eat and vineyards to visit.

For dinner we made reservations at the Trattoria Marsupino and were not disappointed. We started with a bottle of prosecca (happened to be our anniversary!) and then I had to have the pasta with truffle. Our meals were enjoyed with a bottle of Barbaresco wine. Dessert was a very delicious licorice mouse.The restaurant has been in the family for four generations and they still have all four working in the restaurant, with the grandmother taking care of the till.

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Lunch at Dolceacqua, Italy

28 Thursday Apr 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Italy

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Dolceacqua, Great Drives, Great Villages, Ventimiglia

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A few kilometers inland from the coastal Italian town of Ventimiglia, (which is just minutes from the French border and Monaco), along the river banks of the Nervia river, lies the small town of Dolceacqua. The town has become a popular tourist site because of its ancient medieval town, its lovely stone bridge and for the Doria castle which sits on the hillside behind the town. But it’s also famous for its “michetta” sweet rolls  which are connected to a local legend of romance and revenge. It’s a favorite place for us to have lunch after when we visit the markets in Ventimiglia.

Dolceacqua-0013The Doria castle dates back to 1177 when it was the residence of the counts of Ventimiglia. It was purchased some time later by the Marquis Roberto Doria, who at the time was expanding his rule along the Nervia river valley.

One of the advantages of being a Marquis is known as “jus prime noctis” or “droit de seigneur”, which allows him to have the first honor with any future bride as her virginity, it seems, belongs to him. This “right” set the scene for a legend about the Marquis, the castle Doria and the town of Dolceacqua.

In the 14th century, a Dolceacqua baker had a beautiful 19-year-old daughter called Lucrezia who was set to marry a local lad called Basso. The Marquis, pleased at how beautiful Lucrezia was, was keen to claim her first.

Lucrezia and Basso tried to hide but the Marquis tracked her down and took her back to his castle. Desperate, she tried to throw herself from the window of a castle tower. The Marquis stopped her, and to subdue her, locked her in the dungeon. She remained steadfast though, and eventually died there of hunger and thirst.

Hearing of the death of the popular girl, the locals had had enough and approached the castle. Basso was able to sneak in and, at knife point, forced the Marquis to abolish the lus primae noctis.

Screen Shot 2016-04-28 at 10.42.36 AMTo celebrate the end of such a uncivil cruelty, the village women created a sweet they named “Michetta” (They are suppose to resemble female genitals, but that’s a bit of a stretch). From that day, every year on the 16 of August the village celebrates the “Micheta” by dancing, singing, baking sweets and drinking the local wine. Since then the word “michetta” is continued to be used to define virginity and the female womb.

The ruins of the castle are still there and for a small fee it can be explored. At no cost, and just as interesting, one can explore the streets of the medieval town, where many people still live. The walkways are very narrow and the buildings so close together that at times very little skylight makes it through. Stone and concrete arches are commonly used to keep the buildings from falling onto one another. And there are many tunnels that lead from one building to the next, and so dark that street lights have to be on in the middle of the day in order to make one’s way.

We’ve had lunch at the restaurants in the terrace in front of the town, but weren’t that impressed. We discovered the “Osteria de Catarina”, which is at the base of the medieval village. Cross the main bridge and make a left, down onto a plaza. You’ll find this restaurant tucked away in the right-hand corner, a good location to then walk off your meal afterwards, through the streets of the old town. They have pizza and pastas and a number of other dishes, that looked great on our neighbor’s tables. We had the pizza and it was very tasty with fresh ingredients.

To get to Dolceacqua leaving Ventimiglia going east towards San Remo but turn up and follow the Nervia River. There are roads signs along the way for Dolceacqua.

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Roundabout Drive from Nice to Paris

02 Thursday Jul 2015

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, France, Italy, Luxembourg, Switzerland

≈ 1 Comment

This was a rather roundabout way to get to Paris, as it took us through Italy, Switzerland and Luxembourg, but it made for a great trip.

We took the coastal freeway to Savon and from there, turned up to Turin, until we reached our first night’s stay just north and outside of Turin in the the Canavese Valley. There are numerous small towns in the area, situated in the foothills of the Alps. We stayed at a small B&B just outside of the town of Strambinello, called the Castello (Castle) di Strambinello. It would be just outside, west of Ivrea, off the freeway that travels from Turin to Aosta.

Lovely B&B, would certainly have made our HBM hotels in Mexico, except for the fact that it is a B&B, and there is no check-in/reception, and when you need someone you have to do a little searching. But everything else makes up for. Very spacious rooms with an entrance way/study. King-size bed, fireplace and sitting area. Also comes with a servi-bar that if filled with drinks, beer and wine, on the house.IMG_0034

We visited a few towns nearby but there really wasn’t much to see. We had dinner in the town of Colleretto Giacosa, a few minutes from the hotel in the restaurant Del Monte. Lovely dinner of Scallops St. Jacques in a tomato sauce with fried zuchini flowers, rizotto and raviolis, and panna cotta for desert. We shared a bottle of Carema, the local wine. Nice, not fruity, wonderful with the meal. Continue reading →

Visiting Dolceacqua, Italy

04 Thursday Jun 2015

Posted by johnyouden in Italy

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Italy, medieval castles, Ventimiglia

Italy is not far from Nice, France, about a 1/2 hour by car or train, although it depends on which highway you take. It is definitely more scenic to take the lower coastal roads, but traffic can back-up quickly on these windy, narrow, steep roads. But there is a freeway which can get you into Italy quite quickly.

The first town you come to upon entering Italy is Ventimiglia. The Royal flows through the middle of it and is the most commonly known river. But another flows into the Med at the far end of town called the Nervia river. And if you follow this river along highway SP64 north about 10 km out of Ventimiglia, you’ll reach one of the best preserved medieval towns in this region, and which is also not overrun by tourists.

Dolceacqua rests on a steep rock cliff in which the windy Nervia river bends its way around. At the top of the rock is a 12th century castle, now mostly in ruins but recent improvement have made it so visits are available most days (costs six euros but worth doing). They’ve done a good job of building staircases and steel boardwalks to visit many areas of the castle and get an idea of what life would have been like within its walls back in those days. This was the castle of the Count of Ventimiglia for some time, before passing to the Doria family, who are responsible for most of the improvements and fortifications made over the hundreds of years that this was their home, well up into the 18th century.

Probably more fascinating is walking the narrow streets bordered by tall buildings that are kept from falling into one another by rock and concrete bridges. There are many tunnels as well throughout this medieval town that sits at the base of the castle, making it a lot of fun to explore.

Dolceacqua gives you a more realistic idea of what these medieval towns must have looked like in their day, as it has not be turned into some modern version of a Disney town, like Eze or St. Paul de Vence back in France. Great towns, but more tourist traps these days than living towns such as Dolceacqua. Highly recommended as a visit if in Ventimiglia. We had lunch consisting of a caprese salad, pizza and two glasses of wine for 19 euros. Can’t beat that back in France.

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