We’ve been spending some time the year exploring the coastline south of Lisbon, between the coastal towns of Milfontes and Odeceixe, known as the Vicentina Coast. Well, actually the North-central part of the Vincentina Coast, as it actually stretches all the way down into the Algarve. Most of it lies within the South-East Alentejo Natural Park. It’s quite picturesque, and so far away from the crowded streets of Lisbon. Fortunately my blog doesn’t get a lot of visitors so I don’t have to worry about me being to blame for changing that!
The coastline is made up of rocky cliffs occasionally broken up by small beaches. Its natural border in the north is the Mira River with Vila Nova de Milfontes situated on its northern banks. And it ends in the south with the Seixe River with the town of Odeceixe slightly inland, on its southern border. The mouth of the Seixe is rather spectacular, with a large sandbar protecting its entry and making for a beach that fronts the ocean on one side and the river on the other. Both are excellent for swimming, surfing and paddle boarding.
In between are numerous trails for hiking and biking. The most popular hike is on the Fisherman’s Trail that for the most part hugs the coastline. It can be a tough hike as much of it is open to the sun, there are canyons and rivers to be crossed and much of it is walking in loose sand. But the views it provides makes it worthwhile.
The secondary roads that meander through villages make for excellent biking opportunities. Below are some of the hikes and bike trips we’ve made that we enjoyed, along with favorite beaches.
Beaches of the Vicentina Coast
Vila Nova de MilFontes This is the first beach of the Vicentina coastline that you reach coming from Lisbon. You can take in one of the beaches right in the town, or on its southern shore ( less crowded) at Furnas Beach, which offers both open ocean or river beaches. The river provides calm, shallow waters, perfect for small children. Milfontes is excellent for surfing, kiting, winging or paddle boarding.
Zambujeira There are a couple of beaches in the town, but they can get crowded. There’s also Alteirinhos Beach, just to the south of the town, which you can walk to from Zambujeira, or, park the car in a large parking area. But you will still have to hike down to the beach.
Carvalhal Here you’ll find a restaurant/bar close to the beach where you can order healthy food and drinks, which isn’t commonly available on this coastline. Beach access is easiest here compared to the other beaches (don’t have to climb the cliffs), and it’s popular with families with small children.
Odeceixe A stunning beach where the Seixe River meets the Atlantic Ocean offering both river and sea swimming options. It’s a favorite for surfers and for families with the shallow, calm waters at the mouth of the river perfect for small children. This is also an excellent place for paddle boarding up the river. For this it is best to park on the north shore of the river as access to the river is shorter and easier (and there’s more room for parking).
Amália/Machados These are two beautiful beaches but can be a little difficult to get to as you have to hike down to them. There’s a small parking lot to leave cars and bikes. Amalia is to the left (marked) and Machados is to the right and is a longer walk.
Towns on the Vicentina Coast
Zambujeira Nice viewpoint on the cliffs of the town, overlooking town beaches. Nice beach to the south of the town, Praia dos Alteirinhos with very large parking lot and access to the beach below. Good restaurants in town, which has had a lot of work done on it recently, looking good. Zambujeira is just 15 minutes away from Craveiral.
Odeceixe Although Odeceixe is best known for its beach, the town is also worth visiting. Walk its narrow streets, walk up to the old windmill and viewpoint, and have a lunch or drink in the town place.
Teotónio is an older farming town with very narrow streets, leading up to the town plaza and church on top of the hill.
Vila Nova de Milfonte Milfontes is the most touristically developed town on the Alentejo coast, and for good reason as it has a lot to offer. Great beaches, surfing, kiting, and swimming or paddle boarding in calm waters of the Mira river. Furnas Beach (on the south shore), is large and offers both open ocean and river beaches with plenty of parking. The town is fun to explore with a good restaurant selection.
Santa Clara Reservoir Lake
Inland, about 30 minutes from the coast, is the Santa Clara Reservoir. it offer clear, warm waters, a swimming pool raft and picnic sites along its shore. Great for a swim, but it can get very hot during the summer months, as much as 10º above what it would be along the coastline. There’s a service provide on the lake for those who want to go fishing or kayaking.
Hiking the Vicentina Coast
The following three trails are part of the 226 km Fisherman Trail that stretches from Sines in the north to Lagos in the Algarve. These three recommended sections are relatively flat, short (under an hour each way) and offer some great viewpoints of the coastline. For information about the complete hike from Zaumbujeira to Odeceixe, check out this website. On the map provided click on the “Flyover” to get a bird’s eye view of the trail.
Carvalhal-to-Zambujeira Trail Park at the second parking available over the bridge and to the left. The trail leaves the parking lot closest to the beach and heads up the hillside. Once on top it levels off and it follows the coastline to Zambujeira. On the way back you can stop at the Beach Bar at Cravalhal for food and drinks. The trail is 3 km and takes about one hour each way.
Azenha do Mar-to-Amália Beach Trail There’s parking right down by the ocean, on the corner of Rue dos Pescadores and Avenida do Mar. Park here and then take the walkway along Pescadores and you’ll see the trail start at the corner of Rue dos Pescadores and Rue do Polvo. The trail is 2.3 km and takes about 40 minutes one way.
Odeceixe to Viewpoint/Azenha do Mar Trail About 100 meters before the bridge that crosses the river to Odeceixe, there’s a narrow paved road off to the right. Follow this for about 4 km, right down to the mouth of the river. Park here and you’ll see the signs for the trail behind you on the hillside. It’s steep, but this is the only vertical part. Take the trail and follow it out to the point that looks out over the sandbar at the mouth of the river. If you wish you can continue to follow the trail to Azenha do Mar. The full route to Azenha do Mar is 4.4 km and takes about 1 1/2 hours.
Odeceixe South Coastal Trail This hike starts at the top of the hill, above the beach of Odeceixe, where there is plenty of parking. You can walk as far as the Bay of Tiros, which is 3.3 km away and takes about an hour each way.
Biking the Vicentina Coast
For biking opportunities in this area, one should try to avoid the very busy main highway and stick to secondary roads. People seem to often be in a hurry when driving the N120 and there’s very little shoulder room for bikers.
But there is one route for bikers available on secondary roads that will take you from Odeceixe to Zambujeira. This route actually can be done by bike or by car. Along this route are a few access roads to coast communities and popular beaches.
Zambujeira-to-Odeceixe Bike Ride This route is rather easy, mostly flat,15 km long and takes about an hour, depending on stops along the way. It’s recommended to start this ride in Zambujeira as there’s a large parking lot just to the south of Zambujeira (access to Alteirinhos Beach) where you can unload your bikes and leave your car. Head south and first stop is in Carvalhal, just 3 km and about 10 minutes away. Here you can have something to eat or drink at the Beach Club, or visit the beach. Next stop is Amália Beach. On the route you’ll be making a sharp right turn at Beja and then be on a straight stretch or road canopied by tall pines on each side of the road. As you near the first turn there will be a dirt road to the right. Follow this to a parking lot where you can leave your bikes and then walk down to the beach (Trail is marked). Walking in the other direction will take you to Machados Beach.
Back on the road, if you take the next dirt road to the right it will take you to a view point that overlooks the beach of Amália and provides panoramic views of the coastline. Best to park you bike and walk in as the trail is quite sandy.
From there continue on to the clifftop that overlooks the beach of Odeceixe. You don’t actually reach Odeceixe as the only way to do that is to take the busy highway route. But the view alone is worth making the trip of following a narrow road/trail out to the point that overlooks the mouth of the river. You can go by bike most of the way, with just a bit of sand to get through. If you want an even better view you can leave or walk your bike out to the point. From there you head back on the same route. We recommend stopping again at Carvalhal Beach for something to eat or drink and a swim at the beach.
Sao Teotónio to Odeceixe Bike Ride This route is a little more challenging, but more scenic taking you through rural countryside, but is mostly downhill. It’s a combination of paved and gravel roads, with just a couple of short stretches where you need to be on the N120 highway. It takes you first to Teotónio, through the town and then south towards Odeceixe. The route is 18 km and takes about 1 1/2 hours.
Markers 3 and 4 show where the route meets up briefly with the highway. The trail is marked as it is also a walking path to the coast. We’re told that if you search for this route with the Google Maps App, by bike, it will provide directions for this route.
It isn’t recommended to take the route back but to follow secondary roads that are closer to the coast. You’ll have to return first on the N120 highway but make a left turn at the turnoff to Asenjo do Mar. Markers to identify the route are passing the large farms of, first, Atlantic Sun and then Sudoberry Farm. You can drive in to Azenho do Mar if you want, but there isn’t much to see. This route will also take you close to Carvalhal Beach, where you can stop at the Beach Hut for food and drinks. From there, continue on M502 to Teotónio. The return trip is nearly 30 km and takes about 2 hours.