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Flojohn Travels

~ Travel Blog of John & Florence Youden

Flojohn Travels

Category Archives: Portugal

Club Naval near (sort of) Ericeira, Portugal

18 Wednesday Apr 2018

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Portugal

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Ericeira, restaurants

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Portugal’s Atlantic coastal highways are lined with numerous restaurants that specialize in serving fresh seafood. And they are very popular. Like all restaurants, there are good ones and not so good ones. Inexpensive and over the top. There’s so many that it’s hard to find the good ones from the bad.

IMG_3112On a recommendation we discovered a place that is both reasonably priced and exceptionally good. It is called Club Naval and it is situated at the bottom of a steep cliff just outside the small town of Assenta, about 20 minutes north of Ericeira taking highway #247. When you arrive at Assenta, turn right and drive right through it to towards the coast. At the coast you’ll come to a fork in the road, one to a lighthouse (left) and a sign for Club Naval directing you to the right. You’ll have to drive down the cliff on a very narrow road that zigzags back and forth until you reach the restaurant.

There’s nothing much there, other than a small port for local fishing boats, a few fish shacks built into the hillside (with some looking like they are about to slide into the sea), and of course, Club Naval. The restaurant is quite unassuming, with a small entrance with a few tables, but then two adjoining rooms filled with long tables.

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The fish caught by the fisherman of this small port is what Club Naval serves each day. Matter of fact that’s all they serve. The menu lists all types of fish, but only that caught fresh will actually be available, sold by the kilo. Upon entering you find out what is fresh and then select what it is you’d like, and how much of it, from the display case.

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The fish is exceptional, cooked perfectly every time we’ve been there, in garlic and olive oil, served with potatoes and salad if you so choose. There’s also shrimp and prawns when available, (and they usually are), and a decent wine list – in quality and price.

So if you happen to be exploring around Ericeira, be sure to save this as a place to stop for lunch. And if it happens to be a Sunday, get there early as it fills up fast.

Ericeira, Portugal

18 Wednesday Apr 2018

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Portugal

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Ericeira, Surf

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IMG_3487We are back in Europe and recently made a visit to Portugal, a place we keep coming back to and hope to move to in a few months on a more permanent level. We start in Lisbon, but enjoying exploring the areas around the capital.

Less than an hour north and west of Lisbon, along the Atlantic coastline, is the small seaside town of Ericeira. It is extremely popular for surfers with at least seven breaks within the town itself and even more up and down the coast. Steep cliffs meet the ocean, creating ideal viewpoints for watching the surfers below, interspersed with small coves with lovely sand beaches and small seaside restaurants. The surf is great, and so is the fish cuisine, fresh from the sea.

 

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Sheltered fishing port and town beach of Ericeira

IMG_3472Ericeira reminds me of another town; Sayulita back in Mexico, less than an hour north of Puerto Vallarta. They both are full of surfers, attract similar visitors, and are rich with great restaurants, bars and nightlife. Both have so far managed to avoid large hotels and and high-rises from being built in the town area, although that may be changing. As it is now, available accommodation is mostly small apartments, hostels and boutique hotels. But, where Sayulita’s streets are mostly dirt, unpaved, and the architecture is rather eclectic, in Ericeira all the streets are paved with white and black stones that can be frequently found throughout Portugal, with inlaid designs. It makes for a very clean town, and most of the buildings are similar in style, with white with blue (usually) trim. And there’s only a few buildings with more than two stories.

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The typical buildings and streets of Ericeira

We’ve been to Ericeira a few times now and our favorite restaurant has become Tik-Tak – great food and people. Shrimp and prawns are very popular on the menu and the grilled giant prawns are our favorite.

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Obtaining a Driver’s License in Portugal

08 Friday Dec 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, Portugal, Random

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Tags

Portugal

(If you’ve ever had to deal with bureaucratic red tape, you’ll love the short clip above)

We became residents of Portugal in 2017. Initially we purchased a small apartment in the Alfama area, the old town district of Lisbon, and then began the process of establishing everything else that comes with residency – bank accounts, home services, tax accountants, and deciding whether to buy a car/motorcycle or not, or both. We decided on both. And that’s where the fun began.

Having lived in Mexico for the past 30 years, my driver’s license was obviously Mexican, allowing me to drive both a car and a motorcycle (I drove both in Mexico). I had held onto and kept my Canadian one up-to-date, but it only had me down for driving cars.

In early 2016 I had begun to look into what it took to obtain a Portuguese license as a new resident, and I discovered that for EU residents they can use the license of their original country, they just have to register themselves with IMTT (Institution that issues drivers licenses). I also discovered that Portugal has a reciprocal exchange program with some countries, (such as the USA, Australia, and in my case, Canada), but not with Mexico. Meaning if I wanted a Portuguese license and I was showing them my Mexican one I’d have to take the Portuguese driving course and test, as if I were a new driver.

My first initial problem was that my Canadian license isn’t for motorcycles and I needed that. So rather than taking the course in Portugal (and in Portuguese), I decided I’d just go back to Canada and do the motorcycle test there, hoping I could fast track it.

So began the process… Continue reading →

Back to the Algarve

04 Saturday Nov 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Algarve, Carvoeiro

I’ve already posted a number of photos of the shoreline cliffs around Carvoeiro in the Algarve area of Portugal, but we’ve been out walking more of this coastline recently, and the area and views are just too breathtaking to not post more.

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Praia de Morena

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Praia de Morena

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Praia do Paraiso (next to Carvoiero)

Continue reading →

Carvoeiro Coastal Walk

20 Thursday Apr 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Algarve, Carvoeiro, Great Walks

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In the Algarve, our favorite area is around Carvoeiro, a bench of high land between the towns of Albufeira and Portomao, which offers rolling hills on a an elevated coastline, and an amazing oceanfront with spectacular cliffs, grottos, caves and picturesque beaches. In between the town of Carvoeiro and the beach of Marinha, there is a coastal path one could never tire from walking. We did it in stages, so that we could walk back to our car each time. The walk is posted as medium-difficult, stretches just under 12 km and to walk it all at once would take about six hours.

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The first stage of our walk was from Marinha to the small town of Benagil. Just before Benagil is one of the larger caves along this coastline, with an opening on the coast, something like a cenote, where you can look down into and see people on the beach and boats coming and going. The walk takes about 40 minutes each way.

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Beach at Benagil
Beach at Benagil
Benagil
Benagil
One of the large opening to the water caves below
One of the large opening to the water caves below
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Corredoura Beach
Corredoura Beach

Continue reading →

Real Estate in the Algarve

18 Tuesday Apr 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

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Tags

Algarve, real estate

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After a couple of visits to the Algarve this past fall, we began looking at real estate opportunities as we are considering a full-time move to Europe and the Algarve really has a lot to offer, at least for our lifestyle. It did not take us long to find a few properties we liked, two that were in the same development near Carvoeiro.

We soon discovered that many of the titles for the homes (not so much the condominiums) in this region are not held by individuals but by an off-shore company. Looking into further it seems this is the way things have been done here for quite a long time, and for some good reasons.

  1. Inheritance Taxes. Up until recently, inheritance taxes were horrible in Portugal. There was, so I’m told, potential inheritance taxes if the property was just passing from husband to wife, let alone to the children. So having the title held in the name of a company, which wouldn’t change when someone within the company died, solved that problem.
  2. Available Financing. Financing, in the past, was difficult to obtain for foreigners looking to buy real estate in Portugal. A solution to this was to have the title held offshore at a bank, which then would lend to the company using the property as collateral. This allowed many Brits to buy in the Algarve with financing from a British bank, something they would not have been able to obtain otherwise. It really helped the Algarve real estate market boom.
  3. Easy and Quick Closing. Because it is just a transfer of shares, closing then and today is easier and less expensive.
  4. Anonymity. When it is held offshore, no one knows that you are the owner of the property. There are reasons, some legal and some not, why people look for this type of ownership anonymity (although today the amount of anonymity available, especially with FATFA and other global regulations, is becoming increasingly more difficult to obtain).
  5. Saving on the Property Transfer Tax (IMT) at closing. As Portugal doesn’t know the property has actually been sold, they can’t charge the Property Transfer Tax. It was a savings back then and it’s a savings today. But does that make it right? Why should one owner get a benefit that another owner doesn’t? And I’m sure the Portuguese government would love to be receiving these funds.
  6. Capital Gains Taxes. Something else it did, which is a little more sinister, is that it allowed people to avoid paying capital gains taxes. When they wanted to sell the property, they would just sell the shares of the company. Portugal would never know this, that there were new owners, as the name on the title (the offshore held company), would remain the same.

Continue reading →

Exploring Southern Portugal

17 Monday Oct 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Algarve, Carvoeiro, Faro, Lagos

 

In the early fall of this year we made two one-week trips down to southern Portugal, the “Algarve” as it is most commonly known, to become familiar with the region. We have close friends from Canada that are serious about buying down there and moving over for a few years, and so they wanted to find the area that was best suited for them, and then start house hunting. As those are two of our favorite past times, we joined in on the search. They did find a home, and we may just might have found one for ourselves as well, as we really enjoyed our time in the Algarve.

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Carvhalo Beach

Our first impression of the Algarve, from people we had previously talked to and what we had read, was that we wouldn’t like it. And is why we left it last to visit, over central and northern Portugal. We thought it would be like the over-built, crowded, high-rise ridden coastline of southern Spain. And to be truthful, there are areas like that, but they are few. Most of it is made up of small beach and hillside towns, nothing too large, joined together by small country roads and one main freeway.

What I quickly realized is that it could give us what I was primarily looking for: good surfing, boarding, biking, golf, hiking, and fine weather nearly all year round. Basically an  alternative to what we’ve had in Mexico for many years, but are now looking for the same in Europe. The Algarve seems to be it.

The Algarve is commonly broken up into three primary regions: East, West and Central. In the west you have an amazing cliffs shoreline that is often seen in marketing material for the Algarve, whereas the Central and Eastern parts are more flat, with sand dunes and estuaries, meaning the beach is a long way from the mainland. We want easy access to the beach, hence we prefer the west. The weather tends to better as well.

The towns we have not liked are the busy, touristy, over-built ones, which are primarily Portimao, Armco de Pera and Albufeira to some degree.

Portimao is the most over-built with tall high-rises that line the beach and back, something like Miami. We drove through and just kept driving. Seems to have a great beach in front, but this isn’t what we are looking for. If you are on vacation and looking for action, this is the place. Armco de Pero is a smaller version of Portimao, situated close to Albufeira.

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Albufeira

 

Albufeira doesn’t have the high-rises, although the real estate is really huddled close together on the hillside looking over the small town. But it is very much a party town. The streets are similar to those found in Lagos, but instead of being lined with dining tables for restaurants, it is one bar after the other. This place must be insane during the summer months and spring breakers must love it. But not for us.

We spent some time in Faro, but didn’t enjoy it very much. The old section of the town called “Villa Adentro” was interesting and where we stayed, and there are some pedestrian only streets outside its walls, but they just don’t have the style, character and feel of Lagos or Tavira.

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Beach at Barril, near Tavira

To get to the beach you can take a water taxi for a few euros to a very nice beach with a restaurant on it. You can rent a sumbrella and two lounge chairs for about 20 euros for the day. A great place for long beach walks. Another great beach is a Barril, near Santa Luzia and Tavira. You walk over a small bridge and then take a train across a sand dune to the beach. The train was once used to transport fish across the dunes to the mainland, now it just hauls tourists. There are a number of restaurants and it is also a great walking beach, but tends to get quite crowded.

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Riverside town of Tavira in Eastern Algarve

Our favorite towns were Lagos and Tavira; Lagos on the west side, right on the ocean and Tavira on the east side along a river and some ways from the beach. But both are cute, well-kept, clean towns with interesting shops and restaurants that can keep you busy for some time exploring. Tavira resides on the banks of a river with short bridges connecting its shores. It isn’t far from the mouth of the river, but the beach is still a ways away. Not as big as Lagos but fun to explore. A day may be enough.

Lagos is at the top of our list and we look forward to spending more time there. If we were going to stay in one place to explore the region, it would be Lagos, or the small town of Luz near by but further to the west. Both are unpretentious, have great beaches, and lots of restaurants and shops. And Lagos as well has a marina and is a popular place to catch boats that then visit the coastline cliffs of Carvoeiro.

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Beach near Aljezur

We also made a side trip over to Sagres, the westernmost point of Portugal, where the surfing looks good, and the up the coast highway to Aljezur. From there we headed east, up into the mountains to the town of Monchique, which has some amazing viewpoints and is a fun town to walk around.

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Praia Marinha

img_1301The area we enjoyed the most (as far as long-term living) is a bench situated around the beachside town of Carvoeiro, that includes about 10 km of an incredible coastline with steep, golden cliffs, and the small regional towns of Lagoa, Porches and Vale de El Rei behind. Although most of the coast is made up of steep cliffs, there are some very picturesque beaches such as Carvoeiro, Benagil, Marinha and Carvalho, which are accessible by road and a hike down, while others are only accessible by boat.

What is really quite nice is the pathway they have created that follows the coastline from Carvoeiro to Marinha, similar to the “sentiers” of France. Much of it it hugs the cliff side, with railings put up for protection. It can be a difficult hike and you have to be careful of where you step. Most of the real estate is set back, protecting the coast, and making this walkway possible and definitely more pleasant.

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Hard to see, but the coastal trail follows this coastline

 

Restaurants we have liked (so far):

  • La Fortaleza – Lagos: http://www.fortalezadaluz.com. Close to the beach, this was once a fortress but now functions, in a very unique way, as a great restaurant. Worth seeing just as much as dining there. Fish dishes were amazing.
  • Faz Gostos – Faro: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189116-d2281835-Reviews-Faz_Gostos-Faro_Faro_District_Algarve.html. Probably our favorite of all the restaurants we went to during our time in the Algarve. Make sure to make a reservation!
  • Yolo – Luz: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g776012-d6726791-Reviews-Restaurant_Yolo-Luz_Faro_District_Algarve.html. Really enjoyed this restaurant with friends. Can get busy later on, so go early.
  • Tres Coroas – Albufeira: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189112-d1720806-Reviews-Restaurante_Tres_Coroas-Albufeira_Faro_District_Algarve.html. Good traditional Portuguese food at a very reasonable price.
Algar Seco Parque
Algar Seco Parque
Praia Carvalho
Praia Carvalho
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Faro Old Town
Faro Old Town
Faro Old Town
Faro Old Town
Albufeira
Albufeira
Praia Marinha
Praia Marinha
Estoi Palace
Estoi Palace
Estoi Palace
Estoi Palace
Praia Marinha
Praia Marinha
Lagos
Lagos

 

 

 

Evora (Days 5-6 of Central Portugal Tour)

05 Sunday Jun 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Great Drives, Great Villages

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Sao Joao Evangelista church, Pousada hotel and the Temple of Diana

Part IV of our Central Portugal Tour. (Part III is here)

Evora is a town which was once encircled by fortress walls, although little of it is visible now. In its place is a road, a “periferico”, around the town. It is not large, quite easily walkable throughout, through a maze of streets that can make it difficult to know exactly where you are at times. But small enough to quickly become easy to find your way around and back to the hotel.

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Pousada Evora lobby

IMG_0832We stayed at another Pousada, this once called the “Convento Evora”. It is also a historical monument, as most of the group are, located right in the center of town next to the Temple of Diana, supposedly one of the best-preserved Roman temples remaining on the European mainland. And the church of São João Evangelista, beside the hotel, is a must-see for it’s simple, adorned wooden walls and talavera tile work, and the museum adjacent which provides information about the history of the palace, church and monastery.

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Continue reading →

Marvao (Day 4 Central Portugal Tour)

05 Sunday Jun 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Great Castles, Great Drives, Great Villages

Part III of our Central Portugal Trip (Part II here)

We next drove back to the main freeway (A23) from Monsanto and headed south to try and find the town of Marvao. The drive from Monsanto to the freeway (N239) was beautiful as we wound our way through fields of colorful spring flowers scattered with ornamental-like cork trees. We weren’t very familiar with how cork actually was harvested (from the bark, which grows back on the trees every seven years), but found this article very explanatory.

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Finding Marvao was a little difficult as the phone was still not working properly. Fortunately we found a map in the glove compartment so we could make our way the old fashioned way.

Marvao is also a mountaintop village, although not as high up as Monsanto and the mountain isn’t a rugged. Here, they could build “regular” homes and have decent size streets that could run flat and parallel along the side of the mountain. The fort is a little more rebuilt than the Monsanto fortress, which provided a little more to see and explore.

I enjoyed this description of Marvao from Rough Guides:

Very pretty hilltop town with a well-preserved castle and stunning views over the countryside and into Spain. Lots of nice cafes and restaurants. By the time you’ve negotiated the winding road up to MARVÃO you’re ready for sensational panoramas, and the remote border outpost doesn’t disappoint. From the dramatically sited rocky outcrop high above the undulating serra there are unbeatable views, while within a complete circuit of seventeenth-century walls lies a higgledy-piggledy town of fewer than a thousand residents, inhabiting neat houses with granite windows and pitched red roofs.

We again had been fortunate that there were not a lot of tourists, making it easy to get around and see the sights. In Belmonte and Marvao we stayed at Pousadas do Portugal hotels. They are a hotel collection that manage and market old historic properties, such as convents and such, in popular villages and towns throughout Portugal. Both hotels we stayed at were very nice; big rooms, good amenities and friendly people. And well-priced. The Marvao property has great views from the dining and bar areas, but not from many of the rooms, although they make up for it in space and centrality.

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Continue reading →

Monsanto (Day 3 – Central Portugal Tour)

04 Saturday Jun 2016

Posted by johnyouden in Portugal

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Great Castles, Great Drives, Great Villages

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Part II of our Central Portugal Trip. Part I here.

Once off the Serra da Estrala mountain range we followed a valley and the River Zezere northward to the town of Belmonte and the Convento del Belmonte. This is a beautifully restored convent just outside of town that overlooks the valley below, which is lined with fruit orchards, primarily peaches and cherries. Beautifully restored, the convent is modernly attired with plenty of common-sitting areas throughout the property. The rooms are quite large and modern with kind-size beds available. The primary building was made from large, hand-cut granite rocks with large wooden beam ceilings.

We were greeted with a bottle of champagne in our room! Tired after that long hike, we shower and bathed and then cracked open the bottle. We followed up with a very nice dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. Flo had wild boar and I had the partridge stew with a bottle of local wine – all very nice.

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Notice the thickness and size of the granite walls

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  • Club Naval near (sort of) Ericeira, Portugal
  • Ericeira, Portugal
  • Drone Photography of Puerto Vallarta
  • Obtaining a Driver’s License in Portugal
  • Exploring the caves of the Algarve Cliffs
  • Back to the Algarve
  • Exploring Lake Como & Portofino
  • Cruising the Esterel Coastline
  • Importance of Projects in Life
  • Sailing the Istrian Peninsula
  • Return to Venice
  • Biking & Boarding on the Cote d’Azur
  • Bike Trip to Valberg
  • Bike Ride to the Grande Corniche Park
  • Weekend in Seville
  • Carvoeiro Coastal Walk
  • Real Estate in the Algarve
  • Back to the Cote d’Azur…
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  • Travel Plans for 2017
  • Reminiscing in Shangrila
  • Weekend in Alba, Piemonte
  • Bike Ride to Peille
  • Electrically-Assisted Bikes
  • Exploring Southern Portugal
  • 2016 Summer BC Tour
  • Journey to Barcelonette
  • Having trouble with the local language?
  • Evora (Days 5-6 of Central Portugal Tour)
  • Marvao (Day 4 Central Portugal Tour)
  • Monsanto (Day 3 – Central Portugal Tour)
  • Tomar (Day 1 – Central Portugal Tour)
  • Bussaco Palace (Central Portugal Tour)
  • “Covão dos Conchos” Water Feature
  • Long Weekend in Provence
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