Bike Trip to Valberg

05 Monday Jun 2017

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, France, Nice

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Great Bike Rides, Great Villages, Valberg

This is the third day of a long weekend of biking and boarding along the Cote d’Azur. The other day activities are mentioned here.

I knew at the beginning of this trip that I was perhaps taking on more than I could manage, but rationalized it by saying I’d start low and slow and work my way up, I knew that if it became too much of a climb, I could just turn around and glide back to where I started.

So my game plan was to follow, upriver, the Var (D6202) until I reached the Daluis Valley road (D902). From there I’d follow the valley, again, uphill, to Guillaume. From Guillaume I knew from a previous visit by car, that there is a steep, narrow road (D28) that leads up to the ski resort area of Valberg. This stretch of road would be my biggest challenge. And if Varberg was the summit, which I hoped, then it would all be downhill from there.

I parked the car at Touet-Sur-Var and then headed west, passed the medieval town of Entrevaux before turning north up into the valley of Daluis.

Entrevaux with its citadel on the hillside behind

Entrevaux is very much what comes to mind when one thinks of a river-based medieval town, with a long draw bridge and vaulted gate situated between two towers. Early history set the beginning of the town around the 10th century, but most of the serious work on the town was done in the 17th century. There’s also citadel perched high on the hillside behind the completely walled-in town. And inside the town the streets (more like passageways) are dark and narrow, with the buildings seemingly leaning in on one another, closing in the sky above. But today they are lined with brightly colored shops, restaurants and bars, making it all quite pleasant.

The bridge and vaulted gate and two towers, one of which was the town prison

If you are feeling adventurous, one can climb the hill to the citadel, which was constructed in the 17th century and last used during WWII to hold German prisoners. the walk takes about 20 minutes and offers some great picture taking opportunities. Continue reading →

Cote d’Azur Hike: Tete de Chien

18 Monday Apr 2016

Posted by johnyouden in France, Nice

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Great Hikes, Great Walks

This hike starts off in Cap d’Ail and heads straight up the hill and mountainside to the “Tete de Chien”, the massive rock that sits above and behind Monaco and Cap d’Ail. Easy to get to with the #100 bus. This is one, though, that I recommend using your smart phone with Maps as the path can be difficult to find at times, and they do show well on both Google and Apple Maps.

Monaco Coast and Tete de Chien in the distance

The path goes up one side providing western views all the way, while coming down it is on the eastern side overlooking Monaco, Menton and Italy. And when you get to the top you can take in an amazing panoramic view where you see Italy, Menton, Monaco, Cap d’Ail, Beaulieu, Cap Ferrat, Nice and even Antibes, on a clear day. It is a big of a challenging hike, allow 3-4 hours to complete it. And for the lazy one’s you can drive to the Chien along the upper corniche road.

Tete de Chien, Cote d’Azur

Paddle Boarding to Monaco

22 Saturday Nov 2014

Posted by johnyouden in Europe, France, Nice

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Cap D'Ail, Cote d'Azur, Monaco, Paddleboarding, SUP

Helicopter base, me just off of it…

It was the 21st of November but the weather was still warm and beautiful, so we loaded up a friend’s car and headed for Cap D’Ail to do some paddling. We parked at the train station, which is right beside the coastal “sentier” walk into Monaco. This is one of our favorite walks in the area. I blew up the paddle board and started towards Monaco while Flo followed along by the coastal path.

Hardly any wind made for easy progress, just over an hour to get to Monaco. Helicopters were flying in and out steadily (I don’t know how people live here with all the noise). Went around the breakwater of the Monaca marina but didn’t want to go any farther in as there were too many boats coming in and out. So I took a couple of pictures and then headed back.

A very picturesque coastline that, except for Monaco, has not been overly built. Still green areas and parks and the coastline of rugged rock makes it all the more interesting.

My return to Cap d’Ail

Oceanographic Museum

Leaving Cap D’Ail

Getting SUP ready

Great Beaches around Nice

21 Tuesday Oct 2014

Posted by johnyouden in France, Nice

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Cap D'Ail, Eze, Great Beaches, Nice, Paloma

La Reserve Maya from the water

La Reserve Maya – Cap d’Ail

Wonderful beach club in a very protected cove. Hard to get to, many come by boat. The best way to arrive is by train. Get off at the Cap d’Ail stop, walk under the tracks and turn right and follow the path for about 5-10 minutes. If you come by bus it is a long walk down (and even longer walking up). Not much parking if you bring a car. Great beach for lounging and swimming. Great restaurant and bar.

Paloma Beach – Cap Ferrat

Summer season

This is probably our favorite beach club, and perhaps favorite beach. Doesn’t seem to get really over-crowded as Cap Ferrat is a little out of the way. Restaurant is only open during the summer, so otherwise pack a lunch or eat before or after in the port down next door of St. Jean. Our favorite dish is the Loup (fish) for two. It is quite well protected from the wind and has great views looking back at Eze on the hillside. There are usually some very nice mega-yachts moored in front as well. You can get there by car (best way) or the #81 bus which stops in St. Jean and you just have to walk about 10 minutes to get to it. You may want to do a Cap Ferrat hike beforehand, you’ll enjoy the swim that much more.

Eze Beach

A couple of restaurants on this beach that actually is right across from Paloma Beach on the main shoreline (Cap Ferrat is nearly an island). Best way to get here is by train, as there’s a stop right at it and it’s an easy walk down to the water. Not a deep beach, but good for swimming. Bono lives just down the beach from here.

Villefranche

There are two beaches in Villefranche to enjoy, one in town and the other in the port. The one in the port can be seen in the photo above to the left. It is usually frequented mostly by locals so not as busy as the one in town. The beach is similar to that of Nice, it is made up of pebbles, where the one in Nice Centre is more of a sandy beach. In the port there’s a great restaurant that serves mostly locals and has good prices; La Baleine Joyeuse.

Nice Centre beach can get crowded as it is so close to town and a train stop. There’s a snack stand that sells stuff like hamburgers, hotdogs and ice cream (and some cocktails), or you may prefer to visit one of the restaurants next door in Villefranche. Long walk down from the bus stop, lots of parking if you take a car.

Plage de Passable

This is the second public beach on Cap Ferrat, on the opposite side of Paloma Beach. If you look closely at the panoramic above, just to the left of center, you’ll see a beach on the other side, on the peninsula of Cap Ferrat. That’s Plage de Passable. You get off the #81 bus at the Rothschild Mansion garden museum and walk down. There’s a beach club open during the summer, quite a bit of room and good for swimming as it is quite protected.

Castel – Nice Promenade

Nice Promenade des Anglais

This is the beach club that is at the far westerly end of the Nice beach, where the water tends to be a little more protected, at least during an easterly wind. We’ve tried a number of the beach clubs along here and like this one the best. But it isn’t open all year round. I know, it can’t be seen in this photo (it would be in the lower left corner), but next time I’m there I’ll get a new photo.

Plateau de Cavillore Hike at Gourdon, France

12 Sunday Oct 2014

Posted by johnyouden in France, Nice

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Gourdon, Great Hikes, Nice

On top of the bluff view

We’ve covered most of the coastal walks around Nice, and now have begun to search out hikes that are in the hills behind Cote d’Azur. Our first was behind the hilltop town of Gourdon, where there’s a bluff that overlooks the town and provides a very panoramic view of the coast and Mediterranean.

The name of the trail (you can see if snaking up in the photo above to the left) is the Plateau de Cavillore and it is accessible right from the parking lot below the entrance to Gourdon. Cross the street and look for the sign a little ways up highway RD12, about 50 meters. Continue to follow the signs and look for the yellow markings that mark the trail. It takes about an hour to get to the top and the hike up is about 300 meters in elevation and three kilometers in distance. It is marked as a “medium” level hike.

Looking down at Gourdon

On your return be sure to have lunch at the Taverne Provencale, which is in Gourdon and has wonderful panoramic views from most tables. Walk right through Gourdon’s main street to the end to get to it. Our favorite meal is the Salade Chèvre Chaud (Hot goat cheese salad), which is the best we’ve ever had; very unique and their house specialty.

Chèvre Chaud Salad at Taverne Provencale

To get to Gourdon, take the A8 out of Nice, over the bridge and the exit for La Colle sur Loup. From there take the D6, following the signs marked for Gourdon. You may want to take the other route back, which passes through Grasse. The drive both ways is a great one, especially in the fall when the leaves are turning color.